Turnips
Quick Facts
- Family
- Brassica (Brassicaceae)
- Sun
- Full sun (6+ hrs)
- Spacing
- 4-6"
- Days to Maturity
- 30-60 days
- Sowing
- Direct-sow
- Frost-Hardy
- Yes - cool-season tolerant
Turnips sit in an odd spot between radishes and rutabaga in this site's root-crop lineup - faster to mature than the latter, slower and considerably larger at maturity than the former, and like beets, genuinely worth growing for both the root and the leafy greens rather than treating the greens as a mere byproduct to discard at harvest.
Two Crops in One Planting
Turnip greens are a real, commonly eaten vegetable in their own right - peppery and nutrient-dense, closer in flavor to mustard greens than to the mild root below them - and some gardeners grow turnips specifically for the greens harvest, sowing thickly and cutting the tops repeatedly without ever letting the roots size up at all. If you want both, harvest greens lightly from the outer leaves rather than stripping the plant, the same restraint beets need for a genuine dual harvest.
Fall Turnips Taste Better Than Spring Ones
Turnips sown for a fall harvest, timed to mature after the weather has cooled, consistently develop a milder, sweeter flavor than a spring-sown batch that matures into rising summer heat - the same cool-finish sugar-development pattern that improves fall-grown beets and carrots, and worth planning around deliberately if flavor matters more to you than an early harvest. A light frost after the roots have sized up genuinely improves flavor rather than damaging the crop, since turnips tolerate real cold well.
Companions: A Short, Honest List
Peas are turnips' one well-supported companion, contributing real nitrogen through root-nodule fixation that a moderately hungry brassica root crop can genuinely use - a documented, evidence-backed mechanism rather than folklore. We don't have a specific antagonist relationship to report for turnips, and we don't have a long beneficial list either; this is a crop whose main planning consideration is simply not crowding it near other heavy-feeding brassicas competing for the same nutrients, rather than any dramatic pest or disease interaction.
Spacing for Roots vs. Spacing for Greens
If you're growing turnips primarily for the root, thin to the full 4-6 inches so bulbs have room to size up properly - crowded turnips stay small and often woody regardless of how long you leave them in the ground. If you're growing primarily for cut-and-come-again greens, a much tighter, unthinned sowing works fine, since you're harvesting leaf tissue repeatedly rather than waiting on a single root to mature.
Turnip vs. Rutabaga, Which Look Alike in the Store
Turnips and rutabaga are frequently confused at the grocery store, but they mature on different timelines and come from a genuinely different cross in the brassica family - rutabaga is slower, larger at maturity, and noticeably sweeter and denser-fleshed than a turnip, closer in some ways to a large, mild radish than to its faster relative. Knowing which one you actually planted matters for harvest timing: pulling a rutabaga on a turnip's 30-to-60-day schedule gets you an undersized, underdeveloped root.
A Reliable Crop for Beginners
Turnips tolerate a wider range of soil conditions than carrots or parsnips do, and their comparatively fast maturity and forgiving nature toward moderate neglect make them one of the more reasonable root crops for a first-time vegetable gardener to start with, alongside radishes, before moving on to fussier crops like carrots that demand precise, deeply worked soil preparation to succeed at all reliably. A missed watering or two rarely ruins a turnip crop the way it can a more delicate root crop.
Companion Pairings
Frequently Asked Questions
Can turnips be grown in a container instead of an open bed?
Yes, in a pot at least 8-10 inches deep - turnips have a shorter, blunter taproot than a carrot or parsnip, so they don't need the same depth those crops demand, though a smaller, quicker-maturing variety generally does better in a container than one bred for a large storage root.
Do turnips need to follow the same crop-rotation rules as cabbage and broccoli?
Yes - turnips are brassicas too, and skipping rotation for them just because they're a root crop rather than a leafy one still leaves the bed vulnerable to the same soil-borne brassica diseases, clubroot chief among them. Treat any bed that held turnips the way you'd treat one that held cabbage, and avoid brassicas there again for three to four years.
How big should I let a turnip root grow before harvesting?
Most eating varieties are best pulled at roughly 2-3 inches across - much larger than that and the root tends to turn woody and bitter, especially in a spring-sown planting. A fall-sown crop tolerates sitting a little longer in the ground without the same flavor penalty, since cooler weather slows the toughening process considerably.